A small selection of site highlights...
After a mere 20 hour coach ride into the parched north from Santiago, check into another eccentric hostel, this one run by a grumpy old man who keeps a vast number of parakeets and a tiny white dog which wraps itself amorously round my ankle at the least opportunity. I say 'isn't he adorable', and the owner sighs 'Ahhhh, Si.' with a look which says 'stupid foreigner, can't you see he's trying to hump your foot?'
Stand in slow lines for a Thai exit stamp, then for a Cambodian entry stamp, then for a Cambodian quarantine certificate. The health declaration reads: "Please indicate if you have suffered from any of the following in the previous two weeks. Diarrhoea, rashes, stomach pains, headaches etc etc". Well, obviously, I've had the lot, so I tick nothing.
Straight after hitting the gin-clear, luminous blue water, we could see a huge dark shape hanging above the reef - huge enough that my first thought was: 'It CAN'T be a whale...?!?!?'. As we crept closer, it turned out to be a dense shoal of countless tiny black baitfish, being scattered and harried by hundreds of Barracuda, Napoleon Wrasse, Red Snapper and Tuna.
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